2006 silverado radio install

Become a GM-Trucks. Sign in with Facebook. Sign in with Twitter. Sign in with Google. Start new topic. Recommended Posts. Someone Posted December 21, Posted December 21, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options JeepTherapy Posted December 24, Posted December 24, Something Like This My dad has a Silverado currently with a factory radio. Mike M2 Posted December 24, Someone Posted December 29, Posted December 29, Posted December 31, For Tech Support, call From car racing to car stereos, I've written a lot of words about cars.

Different words, even. I spent years writing about cars and motorsports for some magazines you might've heard of emphasis on "might've" despite having only the most basic understanding of what a carburetor does.

It was that experience writing about cars that drew Crutchfield's attention. I began as a freelance contributor, using their vehicle research to write articles explaining how to install audio gear in specific vehicles. Things went so well that they brought me in as a fulltime writer and eventually made me an editor. Now I continue to write those vehicle profiles, other web features, product descriptions, and Crutchfield catalog articles. Let's just say I know some pretty cool stuff that'll help you install your car or marine audio system.

Hopefully you'll have some fun along the way. I was completely and amazingly wrong. The house sounds awesome these days and the latest car is next. And yes, we'll probably write an article about that, so stay tuned!

In brief: This Crutchfield Research Garage article gives you an overview of your truck's stock stereo system and your aftermarket upgrade options. Use our vehicle selector to find the gear that will fit your Chevy or GMC pickup. The great thing about full-size pickups trucks is the remarkable variety of engines, body styles, trim packages, towing packages, and bed lengths offered by most manufacturers.

Whether you're looking for a super-spartan work truck or an ultra-luxurious highway hauler, there's a way to make it happen. These are rugged, powerful vehicles with plenty of miles left to go, but the factory stereos are aging badly.

The body styles: the Classic left has a more rounded nose while the new style right is more boxy. If you have an '07 and you're not sure which version you have, check the exterior photos above and see which front end looks like your truck. If yours looks like the new Silverado, see our profile for the Chevy Silverado.

The new-for dash and center console design still looks good, but it's also good news for anyone planning to install a new stereo. At first glance, the GM "standard corporate" unit found in the trucks looked like a double-DIN 4" tall receiver, but it really wasn't. It was actually a bit of a "tweener," so double-DIN models wouldn't fit in the opening. The up trucks, on the other hand, have a legitimate double-DIN opening, so you can install a big screen DVD or navigation receiver if you want to.

While a vast number of single-DIN 2" tall stereos will also work nicely, a single-DIN stereo with a flip-out screen won't because the screen will bang into the column-mounted shifter.

Replacing the old radio isn't amazingly hard, but it isn't a cakewalk, either. The factory unit is very shallow due to the presence of a metal support bracket inside the dash. You'll need to cut the bracket out to make room for most new CD receivers — even the single-DIN models. This isn't hard, but if you're not comfortable cutting a metal bar out of a dashboard, you might want to turn the job over to someone who is — like a car audio professional.

There's no CD drive to worry about, so most of these all-digital models are shallow enough to fit into the opening without any mods. You'll need an adapter that retains the warning chime and provides a switched volt power source for your new radio. Crutchfield strongly recommends that you use the recommended adapter when you replace your radio. When you purchase it along with your new receiver, we'll give you a very nice break on the retail price of the adapter, not to mention the dash kit. It's relatively easy to retain the steering wheel audio controls when you install a new stereo in your Silverado or Sierra.

When you enter your vehicle information , our database will choose the adapter you need to make your factory steering wheel controls work with your new receiver. Shop for car stereos that fit your GMC Sierra This crew cab pickup has speakers in the front and rear doors. Some trucks will have A-pillar tweeters and a console-mounted subwoofer.

As long as you've got the door panel off, you might as well replace the woofer and tweeter with a top-quality set of component speakers. Drilling a hole isn't hard, but work carefully and wear eye protection. The specifics of what speakers fit in your Silverado's door s varies a little bit depending on model year, but the sizes remained the same throughout.

Our vehicle selector will give you the details when you start shopping for new speakers. If you need mounting brackets, they'll be included free with your Crutchfield speaker purchase. We also include speaker wiring harnesses with every speaker order. These speakers are reasonably easy to reach and replace. You'll need to remove the sail panel and door panel, but this is a pretty simple DIY project and your MasterSheet will walk you through every step.

The key is to work carefully and take it easy when you're prying away the plastic bits. They're not as young and flexible as they once were. Raise your hand if you know the feeling. Tools needed: Panel tool, Phillips screwdriver, small flat blade screwdriver, shop rag, 7mm socket, ratchet, and extension.

On Bose-equipped models, the tweeters are mounted in the A-pillars. You'll get to them by prying away the pillar trim with a panel tool, then using a small flat-blade screwdriver to pop the tweeter out of the grille. A wiring harness is not available for this location, so you'll also need a set of Posi-Products connectors to connect the tweeters to the factory wiring.

The rear speakers are easy to reach and replace, and a wide variety of aftermerket models will fit here Crutchfield Research Photo. Despite the heavy-duty nature of these trucks, the factory speakers in the rear doors can be relative lightweights. Again, scout the drilling area, work carefully, and wear eye protection. If it's equipped with power options, lift and pull out the door panel to disconnect the wiring harnesses.

It's entirely possible that the replacement speakers you purchased for your truck don't include mounting screws. Check the box before you start removing panels and pieces. It's always better to have the mounting hardware you need before you start the job. We have not yet had a chance to research these speakers, but if you have, please share your knowledge in the comments section below.

Shop for speakers that fit your GMC Sierra This speaker is not easy to reach, nor is it easy to replace. In fact, it's kind of a pain. You'll have to remove a remarkable number of panels and pieces to access this forward-firing, dual-voice coil sub, then you'll need to fabricate a mounting bracket to install any aftermarket sub in this location.

It is by no means a job for a beginner. If you have questions, it's a good idea to speak to one of our helpful Crutchfield Advisors before you dive into this project. There's also a Q-Logic enclosure that holds one 10" Type 1 sub and fits under the left rear seat of your truck without sacrificing any space. Of course, if you're looking for a way to improve your truck's bass performance without taking apart the entire interior, you can always bypass the factory sub if present and go with a compact powered subwoofer.

Thanks Tom. Leave a Reply Cancel reply Your email address will not be published. Follow Us. Attached File Attached File. Quoted: Cleaner look, no exposed spring. Dust-seal lip to the roof of the vehicle, in addition to an O-ring underneath. Not the cheapest stuff out there, but there's a few fleets running around with them. Quoted: I didn't want to drill into my brand new Tacoma so I used a hood mount bracket. I'm probably the most inexperienced general out there. I just got it because the test was easy.

But the whole ground plane idea is definitely what was holding me back. I hadn't met anyone with the fender mount. But I love the idea of how clean the install wires would be, just simply going straight in the engine bay where they can be tucked away.

And then with the NMO mount, the antenna could easily come off in case I wanted to go through the car wash or something. I assume you have the Wolcott that you linked to?

How's the quality of materials? Their website looks like most of the stuff they sell might be a little on the cheaper side and more focused on CB? View Quote I've got a Suburban ; I drilled.

First vehicle I drilled, and I don't know why I waited so long. View Quote Drilled mine years ago. No problems yet. Use a quality NMO and you should be good. Weatherproof caps come in handy if you're removing the antenna for a while. View Quote Little bit of history.

It was a replacement to what is now called OMO which was a roof antenna mount Motorola patented in OMO was prone to leaking and other issues. It has since become the defacto mounting standard to the point, very few will even know the other mounts I am referencing. When installed properly, NMO does not leak. There are vehicles floating around with some agencies that have been in service for decades and are still running the originally installed NMO mounts.

You clearly care about the finish of your vehicle. Mag mounts often get dirt under them and will begin to scratch the paint.

They can also attract iron particles in the air which can also begin to rub the paint. The coax running across the roof over time will wear the clear coat away and if you run the coax through a door With NMO, the coax is on the inside of the cab and with most antennas there are two seals to keep water from entering the vehicle.

Moisture will always be present though because the vehicles aren't sealed Still looked as good as the day I installed it when I finally traded it in.

Under the hood, on the driver side firewall, you'll see a spot where some of the sound deadening foam is not applied. If you ordered the "snow plow prep package" they drill this area to run the control cables into the cab. Works great for radio stuff.

Just use a hole saw and then place a rubber grommet and wire loom belt and suspenders and you can run wires to your heart's content right into the cab. I wish all vehicles had such a convenient spot.

Wish I would have done it years ago.